Catalytic converters come off cars, 4WDs and light trucks during exhaust repairs, wrecking and replacement work, and they often end up sitting in a workshop corner or a shed. Before you sell, it helps to know what you actually have. This guide is for anyone holding a scrap catalytic converter in Sydney, NSW or the ACT who wants to identify the unit, photograph it properly and get it ready for a mobile pickup.
Why catalytic converters have value
Inside the steel shell of a converter is a substrate, usually a ceramic honeycomb, though some units use a metallic one. That substrate is coated with small amounts of platinum-group metals such as platinum, palladium and rhodium, which help clean up exhaust gases. Those metals are what give a converter its scrap value. The amount varies a great deal from one unit to the next, which is why two converters that look similar from the outside can be assessed very differently.
Values also follow the market for platinum-group metals, which moves daily. That is why there is no fixed list of figures for converters. Our scrap metal prices guide explains what moves prices across different materials.
OEM or aftermarket: what is the difference?
An OEM (original equipment manufacturer) converter is the one fitted to the vehicle at the factory. An aftermarket converter is a replacement made by a third party, often installed after the original failed or was damaged.
OEM units generally carry more value because they were built to the vehicle maker’s specification and tend to carry a heavier loading of platinum-group metals. Aftermarket units are usually lighter, often have a newer-looking, uniform shell and a small generic label or no clear markings at all. Some vehicles also have more than one converter, so a unit taken from close to the engine may differ from one further down the exhaust. If you are not sure which type you have, the stamped codes are the best place to start.
Finding the codes and photographing your converter
Most OEM converters have a code or serial number stamped or etched into the shell, or printed on a metal tag welded to it. Look along the flat sides of the body and around the heat shield. On older units the marking can be faint or covered in grime, so a wipe with a rag and some degreaser often brings it up. Avoid grinding or sanding the shell, as this can remove the very marking you are trying to read.
Good photos make it much easier to give you a price guide over the phone. Aim for:
- The whole unit. One clear shot showing the full converter, including any pipe still attached.
- The codes, close up. Fill the frame with the stamped code in good light. Natural daylight or a torch held at an angle helps raised or etched characters stand out.
- Both ends. A photo looking into each end shows whether the honeycomb core is still in place and undamaged.
If you have several converters, number them with a marker or tape so the photos and the units stay matched up.
Whole, cut or emptied: why condition matters
The value is in the substrate, so a converter is assessed on what is inside it. A complete unit with its core intact can be graded properly. A gutted or empty shell is just scrap steel and has little value, and a crushed or broken core is much harder to assess.
Do not cut the converter open to check inside. Cutting the shell releases dust from the substrate, leaves sharp edges and risks losing material, and it does nothing to improve the value. Leave it whole, and if a length of exhaust pipe is still attached, mention it when you call rather than cutting it off yourself.
It is also worth knowing that a diesel particulate filter (DPF) is not the same as a catalytic converter. A DPF traps soot from diesel exhaust, and while some diesel systems combine a converter and a filter, the two are assessed differently. If your unit came off a diesel vehicle, say so and include the codes in your photos.
Getting ready for a catalytic converter pickup in Sydney
Because we come to you, a little preparation helps the visit run smoothly:
- Keep them dry and together. Store converters under cover, off the ground and in one spot, ideally in a crate or tub.
- Do not mix them in. Keep converters separate from other scrap so each unit can be checked on its own.
- Have your details ready. Photo ID and a record of purchase are required, so have both on hand. A note of the vehicle each converter came from also helps.
- Know your numbers. A rough count, plus your photos, gives a clear picture before the visit.
Our catalytic converter recycling page lists the types of converters we buy and how the process works. Payment is by bank transfer (EFT). If you would rather send photos and details in writing, you can reach us through our contact page.
Have scrap catalytic converters to move? Oz Scrap Recycling is a mobile scrap buyer — we come to you. Call 0413 609 674 to arrange a pickup.